The Backwaters

The backwaters are a vast network of lakes and canals that link together to form a huge water logged area that stretches for hundreds of kilometres. At some of the canal junctions there were signs that pointed to towns over 60kms away. I think that the original purpose of the canals was to enable the transport of rice from the paddy fields across the region, although that job is now done by trucks.

Since before I came here I have been hoping to get a chance to visit the back waters. It is the thing to do when you visit Kerala, and I was beginning to worry that I would not get the chance.

Thankfully Sajay had heard me saying that I really wanted to go, and his cousin knew someone who owned a houseboat there. So the trip was booked, and we were ready to go. The group was Sajay, Sumit and Mojo from the office, Mojo’ wife Janet, and Sajay’s cousin Sanjay.

The houseboats are either converted rice barges, or new boats made in the traditional style. The roofs of the boats are matted palm fronds, and they look fantastic when you see them all lined up on the water. I was not sure whether the boat that we had booked was going to be as impressive as the ones at Allapey, but it turned out to be even better. There were three bedrooms, each with two beds and an en-suite. The dining area at the front of the boat had large wooden dining table and chairs, and there were six armchairs around a coffee table to relax at and watch the world drift by. It really was quite luxurious. Not only that but we had a driver, a cook, and another servant to look after us for the trip.

We had the boat from about midday on Saturday until mid morning the next day, and all we had to do was drink, and watch the world go by. So that is what we did. The boat glides along at a relaxing pace, we all try to take photos of the views, and the other boats, and drink, and chat.

There is very little else to do, and it is lovely.

I was amazed to see some of the houses by the water, some no larger than a parking garage where built on the thin dyke that protects the rice paddys from the canal. Were the occupants to go for a walk, they could only go a couple of hundred meters before having to turn around. Were they to go a few meters in the other direction they’d need to be able to swim.

Although food was provided, it was suggested that we stop at one of the houses along the way to buy some freshly caught fish. There was a shack set up next to the house that contained an old chest freezer. In the freezer were the biggest fresh water prawns in the world, and some other small fish called pearl fish. The price was exhorbitant, but since the tourist boats are a captive market, they know that someone will pay. And we did, but only after we had come back later.

The boat was tied up for the night, and we were treated to an awesome sunset over the waters and palm trees. Plenty of photos of that.

The prawns were cooked for us as a snack before dinner, and they were lovely.

On of the drinks that I was told I should try is Toddy, apparently this liquor is made from some liquid extracted from coconut trees. It ferments naturally and is a local speciality. I had a glass of it, but unfortunately only got about half way through. I had hoped that after the first few mouthfuls that the taste would improve, but it didn’t. I can’t quite describe what it tasted like, the initial flavour is almost sweet, but then there is a strong aftertaste like the water that’s left over from boiling a ham. I went back to beer and left the toddy to the pro’s.

Dinner was a little bit later, a selection of breads, rice, dall, chicken curry and spiced vegetables. I really enjoyed the food, it was pretty spicy, no way that I would have been able to eat it a month ago, but it was really tasty. Then everyone else started to complain that the food was too spicy and that they couldn’t eat it. Result!!

Afterwards we continues our game of charades, which my team won comfortably.

Eventually we ran out of steam and retired to bed. I covered myself with insect repellent and got into bed. I made sure that the mosquito net was tucked in, and prayed that the mosquitoes wouldn’t find the massive holes in it.

In the morning, before the breezes picked up, the water was beautifully calm, everso peaceful. I could have sat there doing nothing forever.

Still we had to get back, there was just time to go for a swim in the water before we headed back to the berth so that they could get the boat ready for the next group.

If ever you are in the area, you have to go to the backwaters. It’ll be the most expensive trip that you’ll do, but worth it all the same.